Samoa: A paradise you really have to want to visit


At the Upolu to Savai’i ferry terminal an older man reclines on a bench below a café serving hatch, the Samoan equivalent of a greasy spoon. He catches my eye, raises half a coconut, smiles and beckons to me. I’m in no hurry, Samoa isn’t a place to be in haste, and I wander over to see what he wants. My new friend dips a coconut shell into a blue plastic bowl filled with liquor of peeled potatoes or perhaps muddy socks. He passes the coconut to me. “Ava,” he says, raising his eyebrows. I drink the mud, which is bitter and gritty, and return the empty shell.

Source: Samoa: A paradise you really have to want to visit